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Intermediate Lesson
Lesson One
6 Steps to Sewing a Collar
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1. Pin
collar sections together, wrong sides out. With interfacing
on top, stitch outer edge on marked seamline. On collar with
corners, stitch from end to end of fabric, as shown,
reinforcing corners by shortening stitches to 20 to the inch
at beginning and end; do not stitch collar ends.
NOTE: If your fabric is slippery or otherwise difficult,
stitch from the centre to each end, overlapping about three
stitches in the middle.
(To avoid confusion, stay stitching and interfacing are not
shown in the drawings after this step.) |
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2.
Grade and clip seam allowances |
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3.
Under stitch the seam. On a rounded-edge collar, under
stitch the entire seam. On a collar with corners, start and
stop under stitching 1½" from ends.
3a. Rounded-edge collar is now finished. Turn to right side
and press. |
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4. On
collar with corners, stitch end-seams, reinforcing corner as
follows: Starting ½" from end-seamline, stitch with
shortened stitch on top of previous stitches almost to the
seamline. Pivot, take two stitches diagonally across the
corner, pivot again and stitch for about an inch; return to
regular stitch length and complete end-seam. Trim corners.
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5.
Press end-seams open with point of iron. Grade end-seam
allowances, taper corners. |
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6. Turn
collar to right side, pulling out corners carefully. Press.
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Lesson Two
Sewing a Flat Fell Seam
1. Place wrong sides together to sew seam. Flag seam
allowance is 1/2 inch.
2. Press the seam open, than press it again with both
seam allowances turned to one side.
3. Trim the bottom seam allowance to approximately
1/8 inch, then fold the top seam allowance under to half its
width.
4. Press folded seam allowance over trimmed edge then
top stitch the seam. |
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