Running Stitch - Take several running stitches onto the needle before pulling it through fabric. Secure end of stitching with a backstitch (opposite). Short, even stitches of 1/4" (6 mm) give close control. Uneven basting, which combines a long stitch of 1/2" (1.3 cm) and a short stitch, can be used for straight or slightly curved seams.

Backstitch - Bring needle and thread through fabric to upper side. Insert needle 1/16" to 1/8" (1.5 to 3 mm) behind the point where thread came out. Bring needle forward and out the same distance in front of that point. Continue inserting and bringing up needle half a stitch length behind and in front of previous stitch. Stitches on underside will be twice as long as those on upper side.

Prickstitch - Bring needle and thread through fabric to upper side. Insert needle through the fabric, one or two fabric threads behind point where thread came out. Bring needle up 1/8" to 1/4" (3 to 6 mm) in front of the point where the thread emerged. The top surface stitches should be very small "pricks".

Slipstitch - Work from right to left, holding the folded edge in your left hand. Bring the needle up through the fold. Take a stitch into the garment directly opposite the point where thread came out, catching one or two threads. Slip needle through fold a distance of about 1/4" (6 mm). Continue taking stitches about 1/4" (6 mm) apart.
 

Catchstitch - Work from left to right with needle pointing left. Take a small horizontal stitch in hem edge. Take another small horizontal stitch in garment, about 1/4" (6 mm) to the right of first stitch, crossing the stitches. Alternate stitches in a zigzag pattern. Work the blind catchstitch like the blindstitch, folding hem away from you.

Blindstitch - Work from right to left with needle pointing left. Roll hem edge back about 1/4" (6 mm). Take a very small horizontal stitch in the garment. Take the next stitch in the hem, 1/4" to 1/2" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) to the left of first stitch. Continue alternating stitches. Be careful to keep the stitches in the garment side very small, and do not pull too tightly.

Basting Stitch is the longest stitch on the machine. Speed basting is a feature found on many machines, making stitches up to 1" long or more. Check your manual. Speed basting can be used for all basting purposes, but should be tested first on your fabric: Some machines make "empty" stitches between the long ones, and the line of needle holes might show. Hold the fabric taut in front and back, because the basting has a tendency to bunch up the fabric behind the needle.

In Ease-Stitching and Gathering, the line of stitching is drawn up to give either ease or fullness.
Understitching is a line of stitching done on a facing or the underside of a collar. Made close to the edge to prevent seams from rolling to the outside, it does not show.

Stitching in the Ditch means stitching on the right side, in pressed-open seam, to fasten another piece of fabric underneath. It is here shown on a neck facing (26, 27). Done with matching thread and regular stitch length, it is invisible on the outside because it disappears into the "ditch" of the seam. Draw thread-ends through to wrong side, tie and clip.

Stay-Stitching is a line of directional stitching, made before construction, to stabilize edges that might be pulled out of shape in handling. It can safely be omitted on fabrics that are firmly woven or tightly knitted. It is a must, however, on off-grain in loosely woven fabrics, also on bias edges and knits where the stretch needs control. On curved edges that will be clipped later, stay-stitching helps prevent the clipping from weakening the seam.