B
Back-tack
A few stitches taken in reverse to secure a line of stitching

Bar Tack
A very short thread reinforcement for points of stress

Baste-marking
Marking with hand- or machine-basting

Baste
To hold pieces of fabric together temporarily with long, loose stitches, usually made by using the longest stitch length on your sewing machine; basting may be used as a guide for permanent stitches and removed after stitching permanently

Batting
Cotton or polyester batting is commonly packaged for quitters and is readily available at crafts and sewing shops

Bias
The diagonal of the weave or a line across the grain of a fabric, drawn at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge; cloth cut on the bias will stretch, allowing a smoother fit around curves.

Binding
Binding is a way of neatening a raw edge using a separate length of fabric. The binding is usually made in a contrasting colour

C
Clean-finishing
Edge of fabric turned under once and stitched. Used on edges of facings, hems, seams, etc.

Construction stitching
Stitching, such as seams and darts, that shapes and holds a garment together (as distinct from stay-stitching, finishing, etc.)

Cord with lip
A type of ready-made upholstery trim featuring a rope like cord attached to a fabric lip; the lip is installed in the seam so the cord rests on the seamed edge of the item.

Clip
To make snips or tiny cuts into the seam allowance, up to but not through the stitching, so the seam will lie flat. On a concave curve, make triangular notches to allow for flattening the seam easily.

Crocking
Colour rubbing off.

Crosswise grain
The welt, or grain of the fabric going across the width of the fabric from selvage to selvage.

Curtain Headings
Curtain Headings are used as a way of customising curtains, blinds and window top treatments by reducing the overall width of the fabric.

Cut length
The measurement of a piece of fabric that includes allowances for hem, header, any gathers or pleats, and fabric repeat; the length to which you need to cut fabric before you begin sewing.

Cut width
The measurement of a piece of fabric that includes allowances for hems, gathers, or pleats; the width to which you need to cut the fabric before you begin sewing.

D
Directional Stitching
Stitching with the grain in woven fabrics. In knits, stitching all seams in the same direction.

Directional pattern
A fabric design that has an obvious top or bottom; the direction used to distribute two unequal fullnesses of fabric in order to join them in a smooth seam; to curve a trim around a corner, changing a square corner to a rounded one.

E
Ease
The allowance added to a body measurement to make a garment wearable.

Ease, to (verb)
To attach a fabric edge to an edge that is slightly shorter. When ease-stitching, the longer edge s very slightly gathered.

Edgestitch
To stitch close to the folded edge of the fabric with medium-length to short stitches.

F
Fashion fabric
The outer fabric in a garment.

Facing
A piece of fabric or no woven material stitched to the raw edge of fabric and then turned to the wrong side; it produces a stiffer, more substantial edging than simply hemming a raw edge; it is often incorporated into a design to conceal raw edges.

Finger pressing
Opening seam allowances with the thumbnail. Mostly used on fabrics that cannot be pressed.

Filler cord
A mesh-wrapped fiber tube used to make welting or piping. Filler cord is available in a range of closely graduated sizes; the most common size for pillow trim is 6/32-inch.

G
Give
The degree of elasticity in a fabric or a thread.

Grade/Grading
To trim the layers of fabric in a seam to different depths in order to eliminate bulk and create a smooth transition from the seam to the outside edge of the seam allowances.

Gimp
A flat braid or round cording used to trim pillows, curtains, or upholstered pieces.

Gusset
In home sewing, a strip of fabric inserted between two panels to provide flexibility; the gusset creates a boxlike side edge between the front and back of the pillow.

H
Hand
The feel and drape of a fabric.

Hemstitch
Worked by hand from the wrong side of the fabric, hemstitching secures a folded edge to the fabric by means of diagonal stitches. Draw the needle through the folded edge from underneath, pick up one or two threads of the flat fabric, then insert the needle in the folded edge and draw it through. Continue in this manner to secure the hem; the stitches should be nearly invisible from the front.

High-density upholstery foam
Firm polyurethane foam pads for use in cushions, bolsters, or pillows. Foam pads referred to as high density are resilient and resist crushing with heavy or prolonged use.

I
Interlining
A layer of fabric added to a lining for warmth.

Interfacing
Nonwoven fabric, available in varying weights, that is used to stiffen fabric and strengthen seams.

Invisible thread
Nylon thread that is clear or smoky in colour. When used in the top of the sewing machine, the stitches blend into the fabric.

J
Jumper
A small plastic device for ‘jumping’ over lumpy seams with the sewing machine. Also known as a Hump Jumper or Jean-A-Ma-Jig. Something which does the same job may also be sold as a button reed. Very useful when sewing up the hems of your jeans!

 
K
King Tube
A large plastic tube with a flanged bottom used to control spillage of smooth threads (e.g., continuous filaments).

 
L
Lengthwise grain
The grain of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvages.

Lining
A firmly woven, smooth-finish cotton used to back decorator fabric for a smoother, more finished appearance.

Liquid ravel preventer (seam sealant)
A c Lockstitch
At the beginning or end of a line of stitching, take a few stitches in the same place with the sewing machine.

Looper
A stitch forming device used to interloop the bottom thread with the needle thread on a chain stitch, over edge, or cover stitch machine.
 

M
Measuring Up
Measuring Up for your curtains and other window treatments is an essential skill which you must learn to master.

Miter
The diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge finish, such as a binding, hem, etc.
Mitring is a method used to both neaten and reduce the bulk of fabric on seams and hems.

Monocord
A bonded continuous filament nylon or polyester thread with a small amount of twist. Monocord threads are used on furniture, shoes, and heavy-duty applications because of their strength and abrasion resistance. Fine sizes of monocord threads are used for blindstitch operations on tailored garments.

Monofilament
A single filament thread resembling fishing line. It is extruded with a specific diameter. Monofilaments are typically used in blindstitch operations because the thread is translucent and blends in with many colours.

Multifilament
A type of thread made from several plies of continuous filament that have been twisted together

N
Nap
In actual fact, the raised, hairy or downy surface on fabrics such as flannel, etc. In patterns, however, "with nap" means any fabric surface that looks different when held up or down, such as pile, knits, one-way designs.

Non-woven fabric
A fabric not woven or knitted from thread or yarn. Non-woven fabrics, include fake leather and suede, felt, various interfacings.

Notches
Markings on patterns used for matching. They are no longer notches but the opposite-they stand out from the cut edge. Notches cut into the seam allowance may weaken the seam.

Nylon
A synthetic fibre formed into a filament for use in thread making and other applications. It has good strength and excellent abrasion resistance.

O
Overlock
An overedge stitch formation.

P
Package Dyeing
A process for dyeing thread wound on packages. Dye solution is forced under pressure from the outside of the package inward, and then from the inside out.

Paper-backed fusible web
A heat-activated adhesive product that is used to bond fabric or fabric to other porous surfaces.

Passementerie
A French term for fancy trims such as fringe, braid, cording, and tassels that add texture and colour to home decorating projects.

Peeler
A high quality extra-long staple upland cotton with a staple 1-1/8 inches in length or more.

Pillow form
A ready-made cushion in one of a variety of standard shapes and sizes; the filling may be down, feather/down, or polyester fiberfill.

Pivot
Leaving the sewing machine needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot, turn the fabric at a sharp angle, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching. Pivoting at corners and points is necessary to make a crisp point on the finished piece.

Pivoting
Moving the fabric around with the machine needle in it and the press foot up.

Piping
Piping is a method of emphasising a seam or edge and is often used on corners to add strength.

Ply/Plies
The number of strands that have been twisted together to form a sewing thread. Most core and spun polyester threads have two or three plies.

Pleat
To fold fabric back on itself in a regular pattern at desired intervals to make a trim or a finished design. Also the finished folds made in this way.

Polyester
A synthetic resin used in thread making. It can be in either staple or filament form.

Pre-shrinking
Shrinking done before a fabric is used.

Prominent pattern
An obvious motif, such as a large floral bouquet set against a plain background.

Puckering
Result of fabric being gathered by the stitches. Possible causes include loose hooping, lack of or improper backing, incorrect tension or a dull needle.

Puff Embroidery
Stitching a dense motif over embroidery/craft foam to create a three-dimensional effect.

Q
Quarpel Finish
A water-repellent finish used on fabric or thread which causes the moisture to bead up and run off rather than to permeate the fabric.

R
Registration
Correctly aligning all stitches and design elements.

Repeat
The vertical length of a design or motif.

Resizing
The ability to scale a design to different sizes. May cause density problems unless stitch count can be altered.

Right sides
The patterned, printed, or figured side of a piece of fabric. This is the side that is intended to show.

Ruche
A pleated or gathered strip of fabric.

Running Stitch
A single stitch between two points, used for outlining and fine detail.



S
Self-fabric
The fabric from which the garment is made.

Seams
Seams are different methods of joining widths of fabric together.

Sizing
A starch-like finish, added in the manufacture of some natural-fiber fabrics and rayon. It is water- and steam-soluble.

Stability
The degree to which a fabric resists pulling out shape.

Stay
A tape added to a garment part to keep it in shape.

Stay-stitching
Stitching done inside the seam allowance, before construction, to stabilize curved or slanted edges. Usually done on a single thickness, but also used to attach interfacing.

Stitches
Stitches are ways of holding pieces of fabric together. Instructions on the most useful and popular are described

Stitching-in-the-ditch
Stitching on the right side through a seam (in the ditch"), to fasten something underneath.

T
Tack
To secure with a few small hand stitches.

Tassel fringe
A decorative trim that consists of a gimp or braid portion combined with a fringe comprised of tassels.

Tension
The balance between the bobbin and needle threads on a sewing machine; correct tension ensures a perfect stitch.

Tenacity
The relative strength of a thread, calculated by dividing the tensile strength by the thickness of the thread.

Tencel
A cellulosic fiber physically similar to cotton.

Tensile Strength
The tension at which a thread breaks.

Tension
The stress a sewing machine applies to the thread during stitching to regulate the balance between the top and bottom threads. Generally, a looser tension is desirable to minimize sewing problems and enhance sewing performance / the balance between the bobbin and needle threads on a sewing machine; correct tension ensures a perfect stitch.

Tex Size
A thread numbering system in which size is equal to the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of greige thread. The larger the tex size, the coarser the thread.

Textured Threads
Threads that have been false-twist textured to entangle the parallel continuous filament.
Topstitching - hand- or machine-stitching, either functional or decorative, that shows on the outside of a garment.

Tuck
A small fold or pleat in a fabric or trim.
Turn under: to turn the edge of a piece of fabric to the wrong side, usually by a prescribed amount, such as 1/2 inch.

U
Understitching
a line of stitching along the edge of a facing or undercollar to keep it from rolling to the outside.

Underlay Stitch
Stitches laid down before other design elements to help stabilize fabrics.

V
Vat Dyes
Dyestuffs with a high degree of fastness to light and washing.

W
Wash Fastness
The ability to resist colour change after three to five home washings.

Welting
Filler cord covered with fabric and used to trim edges or seams.

Wrong side
The back of the fabric, not intended to be seen in the finished project.

X

Y

Z
Zig Zag
A stitch that goes one way (zig) and then the other (zag) and provides a nice finish to a seam to prevent ravelling, can be a decorative addition to any garment, and can allow for give with knits. A very short to nonexistent stitch length with zig zag stitching is the same as a satin stitch

Zipper foot
A sewing machine attachment designed for installing zippers; the design of the foot allows the needle to stitch close to items such as zippers and cording.
 

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